Papillon Perfumery
Papillon Perfumery is a small British house run by Liz Moores. She registered it in 2011 and put out the first three scents in 2014: Angelique, Anubis and Tobacco Rose. Salome followed in 2015 and made the brand's name, then came Dryad, Bengale Rouge, Spell 125 and Hera. Everything is blended by hand in her studio in the New Forest. The style is old school: heavy naturals, animalic notes, a big load of perfume oil. Most bottles are 50 ml eau de parfum, Hera is a pure parfum.
It suits people who miss thick vintage chypres and do not mind dirty, skin like notes. Anyone after quiet office scents should look elsewhere. The sample set costs little and covers the range, so start there. One practical point: the site has been unable to post perfume outside the UK, so buyers abroad go through stockists. Batches are small, so a favourite can be out of stock for weeks.
Pros
- Hand blended in small batches in the New Forest
- Vintage style chypres with heavy naturals
- One perfumer behind every release since 2011
- Hera offered in pure parfum strength
- Cheap sample set to test before a full bottle
Cons
- Direct posting outside the UK has been restricted
- Small runs sell out and restocks take time
- Animalic notes are too much for many people
- Well over £100 for a 50 ml bottle
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